Monday Musings from Ithaca…..
We are still ‘holed up’ in Kioni on Ithaca – a nautical term implying the wind is too strong to leave harbour, which indeed it is. Despite being on a sailing yacht, we will be here for three nights at least. But Kioni is a little piece of paradise – the harbour is like an amphitheatre with the terracotta roofs of buildings surrounding the bay. Much was destroyed in the 1953 earthquake, and rebuilt, but a few original buildings remain.
Kioni is a very small village. The little road hugs the harbour, and if two cars meet, one has to back up to let the other pass. In the early morning, there is a fruit lorry and several bread vans and delivery trucks stopping to unload. In the village there are a number of excellent restaurants and bars, a bakery and a mini-market. As there are many holiday homes here, spreading upwards from the village, all the tourists come down to the harbour in the evening. There is also a modern church, and on Sunday there was the most beautiful Greek Orthodox singing coming from within.
Mooring on the harbour is highly prized, as most people want to be able to step ashore without the hassle of using a dinghy – including me. I hate the dinghy and outboard with a passion! But you can also anchor opposite and take lines ashore to secure yourself to the rocks, which is great if you want to swim off the boat in the clear water. When the flotilla boats come in here, it is great fun to watch them all jostling for space, trying to find somewhere to moor, or being blown sideways by the wind.
Although Kioni is a lovely place to be, it is somewhat touristy and doesn’t really represent real Greece, especially in the expensive tavernas where they try to seduce you with fancy dishes. There is no kafeneon or cheap souvlakeri here.
We have been having problems on board with our battery charging system. Tim installed a special ‘smart’ fast-charging system six years ago, and it looks like it might need replacing as it is not working properly. He has a few more tricks up his sleeve involving electrical components and wires, but it may eventually need a lot of money spent on it…… No eating out tonight then, we’ll be frugal and just have cheese on toast …….