Half way between Amorgos and Kalymnos in the Aegean Sea, is the tiny Greek island of Levitha. It is mostly cruising sailors who know this island, as it is a good ‘bolt hole’ if the weather is bad, as the various bays offer excellent shelter from high winds of any direction.
Apparently, the island is only occupied by one family who look after a goat farm of 900 goats, and also run a small taverna at their farmhouse. They have put a dozen mooring buoys in the bay for yachtsmen, and charge seven euro a night for the privilege. We took the dreaded dinghy ashore and walked the short distance up the hill to the farm taverna. There were goats everywhere! Mostly small ones which presumably escaped the Easter cull, when everyone in Greece roasts goat on the spit.
There were about half a dozen tables in the farmhouse courtyard, beautifully decorated with shady awnings, and displayed on the walls were artefacts they had fished from the sea, such as parts of ancient amphorae jugs, and some huge sea shells.
The meal was very simple but delicious. We had a Greek salad, saganaki (fried cheese) then we chose the goat stew in tomato and garlic sauce, which was extremely tasty. I thought I would be squeamish about eating goat, like I am with bunnies, but it was amazing. It was a good job we took torches, as our walk back was through the unlit stony fields and you could easily get lost and the goats weren’t much help.
The next morning we left tiny Levitha behind, and headed to Leros……Have you ever woken to the sound of hundreds of goat bells tinkling at dawn? A terrific start to the day. Lots of small goats came running down the rocks and along the rocky shore before disappearing into the scrubby bushes…..
Come back tomorrow and find something beginning with M……