As we are currently on dry land, and I have no sailing related news to tell you, I thought I would share a Sailblog post I wrote almost three years ago. We had begun our circuit of the Aegean and had sailed from Syros, to the islands of Paros and Naxos, then on to Amorgos…..
21 May – on board Fandancer
weather: 25degC, winds light, force 2-3 NW.
After two peaceful days, we sailed to Amorgos which took four and a half hours. What a lovely place, one of our favourite islands, definitely worth a return trip. We moored on the quay at Katapola, the main town on Amorgos, alongside yachts from Austria, France, Germany, Belgium, Turkey and even one from Australia.
Amorgos is famous for its scenic walks and we saw many groups of ramblers who were preparing to trek to the famous monastery which is built into an overhanging cliff. There is also an old Chora, or hill village to explore, with ancient windmills and winding narrow streets. In the evening we walked around to the other side of the harbour and sat at the appropriately named Moon Bar to watch the sunset with an ouzo in hand.
We have paid very small amounts for mooring fees so far this year – three days in Paros cost us five euros in total, with free electricity and water. Naxos marina was twelve euro a night including elec and water. At Iraklia and Amorgos we paid nothing. The port police in Amorgos obviously kept a check on the boats coming into the harbour and asked the boat alongside is to take their papers to the office, which is common, and charged them ten euros, but they didnt even look at us. We can never fathom out the intricacies of Greek officialdom…….
Our next stop was the amazing and very tiny island of Levitha, half way between Amorgos and Leros, known to yachtsmen as being a very safe anchorage from very strong winds from any direction. The wind had died away by the time we got there at 5pm. Apparently, the island is only occupied by one family of three inhabitants. They have a goat farm of 900 goats, and run a small taverna at their farmhouse. They have also put a dozen mooring buoys in the bay for yachtsmen, and charge seven euro a night for the privilege. We took the dinghy ashore and walked the short distance up the hill to the farm taverna. There were goats everywhere! Mostly small ones who presumably escaped the Easter cull,when everyone in Greece roasts goat on the spit.
There were about half a dozen tables in the farmhouse courtyard, beautifully decorated with shady awnings, and displayed on the walls were artefacts they had fished from the sea, such as parts of ancient amphorae jugs, and some huge sea shells.
The meal was very simple but delicious. We had a Greek salad, saganaki (fried cheese) then we chose the goat stew in tomato and garlic sauce, which was extremely tasty. I thought I would be squeamish about eating goat, like I am with bunnies, but it was amazing. It was a good job we took torches, as our walk back was through the unlit stony fields and you could easily get lost and the goats weren’t much help.
Have you ever woken to the sound of hundreds of goat bells tinkling at dawn? A terrific start to the day. Lots of small goats came running down the rocks and along the rocky shore before disappearing into the scrubby bushes…..